Some Like It Hot! Spicy Jewish Condiments

This page is inspired by Carol Goodman Kaufman (carolgoodmankaufman.com) from a article in the Berkshire Jewish Voice. She says, "As we Jews lived in cold climates, hot and spicy condiments warmed us. In hot ones, they've opened up our pores and allowed perspiration to cool us".

Ashkenazi cuisine is generally bland to mild with little heat, yet it does have some spicy condiments… mustard and horseradish. Horseradish and mustard (and Wasabi as well) have a chemical in common; the chemical  allyl isothiocyanate. It stimulates sensory cells in your mouth, throat, and nose.

Saphardi, Mizrahi, and many regional Jewish cuisines use herbs and spices to kick up the heat.  Charif, the Hebrew word for sharp, is a general term and includes many forms of hot sauce.

Mustard seed is mentioned in the teachings of most major religions and the references include some writings by later religious scholars as well as the religions’ primary scripture. While not mentioned in the Torah, chardal, mustard seed in Hebrew, is mentioned numerous times in the Talmud.

Although mustard seed had been in use since the time of the Egyptians, the Romans were the first to make a spread by grinding the seeds and mixing them with wine or vinegar. Mustard seed and mustard paste came to Israel, and Jewish cuisine, during the Roman occupation.

There are three species of seeds from mild to strong: White/Yellow, Brown, and Black. These 3 are the basis for the myriad types of mustard we use today. Some consider the yellow Oriental seed as a separate species.

Chrain is Yiddish for horseradish and is ubiquitous at Passover Seders and is usually found in three preparations. The horseradish root probably began in Eastern Europe.

First is the hottest, straight unadulterated white, grated from the root and maybe mixed with some vinegar.  Next is the milder creamed, white horseradish mixed with sour cream, very mild. Last is slightly sweet red, natural ground horseradish mixed with red beet juice. Stil has a kick, but toned down by the slightly sweet beet juice.

One of the most popular hot sauces is made from tomatoes, vinegar, oil, garlic, lemon juice, cumin, salt, cayenne and jalapeño peppers.

Zhug is a usually green chili paste whose base is made from chilis, vinegar and oil.  There is a red/brown variety with green pepper and tomatoes. The Israeli version is known as SCHUG.

Harissa is a thick, flavorful paste made from ground dried chiles  similar to  jalapeño and serrano, olive oil, and various herbs and spices, most commonly coriander, cumin, caraway, garlic and/or lemon juice.

Shatta is a thick tomato  based sauce and contains parsley in addition to red chiles and olive oil.

Awaze is a blend of Berbere spice and Tej (a sweet, honey wine), garlic, black pepper, and oil.

These two similar condiments are based on Aleppo peppers, red peppers, walnuts, olive oil and breadcrumbs, and may also include cumin, pomegranate molasses and lemon juice.

This red chilli sauce is made from  hot chillies, mild chillies, garlic, tomatoes, and cayenne pepper.

This sauce was popular in what is now a very small Sudanese Jewish community. It combines a Sudanese Baharat spice mix with peanuts. The spice mixture (Black pepper, Allspice, Cinnamon, Cardamom, Nutmeg, and Dried Rosebuds) is mixed with Onion, Lemon Juice, Crunchy Peanut Butter, Chillies, Chicken Stock, Cumin, Chili Powder, and Salt.